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mailto:[email protected]?subject=tb%20tutorial

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How to wind 'continuous knot' or 'toroidal' style mobius coils

First - Make yourself a "mobius Cable" to wind the coil from. While
you can wind a mobius coil from single strands of wire, it certainly
seems to be a lot more potent when you use a cable made in the
manner described here to wind the coil from. Take a length of
wire, and double it back on itself twice as shown to the right. Pull
a little slack out at the ends of the wire, this will be the leads of the
coil when it is finished. You should leave yourself at least 2" for
leads, and it is a good idea to give yourself 6" or so, you can
always trim the leads to the required length when the coil is
finished. It is much easier to use a drill to twist the wires than
doing it by hand. Run the drill in reverse and you will get a
clockwise twist to the cable. I recommend that you wind the coil
itself clockwise also.



1. - Starting with the end of the cable which does not have the
leads, make a circle in the clockwise direction about the size you
want your finished coil to be. You can wind the coil around a core
(xtal for your SP) or you can wind the coil by itself if you are using
stiffer wire.



2. - When you complete the first wrap, feed the wire through the
center of the circle so it wraps around itself in the clockwise
direction as shown. Use a little glue (hot melt or silicone
preferable) to hold the wire in place where it crosses over itself.



3. - Start winding the wire around the circle in the clockwise
direction again.

Page 40

http://www.littlemountainsmudge.com/artorgonitetypes.htm
http://www.littlemountainsmudge.com/artorgonitetypes.htm

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This is basically how you hook it up. You want to take the signal from your PC's sound card, route it through
your amplifier, and then run it through the coil in the device. There are several ways you can do this, and no

doubt those of you familiar with electronics
will see that there are better ways than the
method I have illustrated. I chose this
method for this page because it is simple.
Just use the adapter to connect the sound
output from your PC to the line in or aux
input of the amplifier. Then take one of the
wire pairs leading to a speaker from the
stereo, and cut ONE of the wires leading to
the speaker. Leave the other wire intact.
Preferably, use the positive wire. Then,
connect the leads of the coil in the device
to either end of the speaker wire which you
have cut. This has the downside that you
have to listen to the sounds being
generated, but it PROTECTS YOUR
AMPLIFIER from blowing. Mobius coils
have very low resistance, and if you
connect it directly to the amplifier output
without having enough resistance you may
damage your amp. The resistance in the

method of connection shown is provided by the speaker. The current comes from the PC, is amplified by the
amp, then goes through the coil. After it leaves the coil it goes through the speaker and back into the circuit.

Alternately, you could add a resistor to the mobius coil to give it enough resistance so that the amp would not
perceive it as a short. In order to do this, you would need to find out what resistance your speakers are. Usually
the speakers are marked (inside the speaker box on the back of the speaker magnet) with a little number
beside an ohm symbol. This is the resistance. An ohm symbol looks like a little "O" with the bottom cut off and
two little tails (Greek letter omega).

Again, alternately, you could connect the coil directly to your pc sound card by adding 8 ohm resistance to the
mobius coil, as I gather 8 ohm is the standard resistance for small speakers like the ones used in PCs. In fact, I
may be offering this (the ability to plug it directly into your PC sound output) as an option on the Pro Model
Pulsers at some point in the future. For devices the size of the one shown on this page, I think it is better to
have the extra power provided by the amp. If you use a device like this to charge your orgonite while it cures,
you can increase the potency of your orgonite significantly. Some suggested frequencies: 15 Hz, 32 Hz, 5075

Hz. Obviously, one could build a more refined device based on this general concept, but hey, I can't give away all of my trade secrets ;). Besides, lots of folks won't
mind that it looks hokey as long as it works. Make sure and keep buying stuff from me so I can afford to keep giving away my trade secrets hahaha... :) Hope this is
useful to some of you.

- Jon Logan

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